I recently attended the Rye Revival, a three day celebration of Maryland’s whiskey heritage, in Baltimore. My friend TW Wright was presenting and asked if I could provide a little moral support. He was nervous to be on stage with better-known authors and distillers. NY Times reporter, and author of whiskey books, Clay Risen was the keynote speaker. Lew Bryson is a podcaster, spirits writer, and has penned multiple books. In addition, many Maryland distillers and Todd Leopold from Leopold Brothers Distillery in Colorado were speaking or attending. What TW lacked in reputation and resume, he made up for with passion.
TW’s timeline of Maryland Whiskey was engaging. He shared Maryland whiskey’s birth in the Chesapeake during the colonial period, dwindling to demise during Prohibition, followed by death in 1972. That’s when Pikesville Rye was sold to and made by Heaven Hill in Kentucky. There were no memorial services for the brand. Lingering support in Baltimore kept the national brand on life support until it revived. As the 21st century arrived, people looking for new tastes re-discovered rye. It is a renaissance that continues to grow.
TW and I have been passionate about rye whiskey since our discovery of Pikesville Supreme Rye and Dad’s Hat several years ago. We started as scotch fans but tasting experience and exploration of flavor profiles led us to a spicier spirit. We banter back and forth during tastings about relative and exaggerated claims made by whiskey fans from each state. During his presentation, I sat on my hands knowing some of the “facts” he presented were points I have challenged in the past. For example, “Kentucky, Pennsylvania and Maryland led the nation in whiskey production!” This is technically true.
But, at one time (turn of the 18th/early 19th century) Pennsylvania actually led the nation in whiskey production. Since prohibition, Kentucky bourbon dominates the American whiskey market. Maryland has made whiskey since colonial times however, it never exceeded a distant 3rd place in production.
Curiously, even though Pennsylvania “Monongahela” style rye is a major contributor to the heritage of American whiskey, that specific name was never mentioned. It may be due more in part to the idiosyncratic inability of TW to correctly pronounce the word in one try. I doubt it was oversight or error! I have never seen him able to enunciate the term Monongahela correctly in less than three tries. Discretion being the better part of valor …. especially in front of a large audience of experts, “Pennsylvania Rye” got the point across.
Finally, lots of places make “Maryland” whiskey. What is it that defines Maryland style? According to the keynote speaker it is descriptive more than prescriptive. It was made north and south of the Mason Dixon line and east and west of the Mississippi River. It is sweeter and smoother and sometimes uses corn. I guess we, at the historic Eichelberger Distillery in South Central Pennsylvania made Maryland Rye in the early 1800’s because we had rye, corn, and barley in our mash bills … sometimes. And, we hauled it to Baltimore to sell. One of the Rye Revival speakers was Todd Leopold from Colorado. Even before Maryland distillers were making whiskey, Leopold Brothers released a Maryland-style whiskey about a decade ago. Not only does Todd enjoy reviving old recipes, but he is producing whiskey on a three-chamber still designed in the late 19th century.
The term Maryland Rye may be nebulous, but the intent and passion of Maryland distillers is not. Distillers from the state have focused on reviving their rye heritage. As of October 1, 2023 Maryland Rye is the official state spirit. TW did well. His passion for the spirit is palpable. His knowledge of rye stands up to recognized experts. At the Friday Night Rye Tasting, following the seminars, distillers from Maryland and other states shared their interpretations of Maryland Rye. Though I reside in, and remain loyal to, Pennsylvania and her whiskies, I am thankful for the revival of Maryland rye.
