Bourbon, Scotch or even Irish whiskey often serve as the jumping off point for many in the beginning of their whisk(e)y journey. But once one becomes acquainted well enough with their choice debut styles it’s usually only a matter of time before curiosity takes hold and other whiskies of the world pop up on the radar becoming the next target to taste. There are plenty of fantastic whiskey choices out there from countries like India, Taiwan, and we can’t forget about Canada. But, whiskies from Japan have cut out a masterful level of intrigue and popularity for many with some even reaching their own cult-level status. Let’s go there now with three of the newest special edition releases from Kaiyō Whisky.
Now full disclosure; I have the great opportunity to work with this brand, pouring and sharing its whisky with eager crowds from all over. And, as anyone who knows me has probably heard me say, “If it’s good, it’s good, and I want to share it.” These are all my own words and thoughts, without any influence from the brand.
With Master Blender Jeffrey Karlovitch at the helm, Kaiyō Whisky quickly gained attention and acclaim with its progressive use of Japanese Mizunara Oak cask maturation and additional aging at sea. Since it 2017 launch, this blending house brand, which uses 100% malted barley newmake spirit produced entirely in Japan, has received multiple awards and accolades. This includes a spot in the 2019 Whisky Advocate Top 20 Whiskies of the World with the “Signature” Mizunara Oak 43% expression, matured exclusively in new Mizunara Oak. Fast forward to 2023, Kaiyō now holds a collection of celebrated releases utilizing a number of other cask-type finishes and maturation techniques in addition to its revered Japanese oak staple as the primary aging vessel of choice.
One particular segment of this collection is the most recent releases of the Wood Library Series. The series, launched in the beginning of 2023 is an exploration of even more unique cask types used in combination with the hallmark Mizunara Oak. The first of this series, Kaiyō The Grand Cru, was matured for ten years in a combination of Mizunara and French oak, boasting a wonderfully rich textured whisky, full of exotic and dark berry flavors. that I have received requests for samples of time and time again. Following the Grand Cru, Karlovitch and team decided to unveil and launch the next three expressions in the Wood Library Series all at the same time so they would be available for the fourth quarter and holiday gift-giving season. And here we are.
First, Kaiyō The Ramu (Japanese for rum) is an 8 year old whisky that first matures in Mizunara Oak for six years before then being transferred to JM Rhum Agricole barrels from the Caribbean for an additional 2 years, and then finally bottled at 46% ABV. Taking a head-first dive into the vast depths of r(h)um over the last few years, I couldn’t be more excited to see, and taste, how these Agricole casks from Martinique would influence all-malt spirit and play on Mizunara casks. Though I would describe this whisky as the lighter, or more delicate of these newest three, there is by no means any shortage of flavor or presence. The similarly sweet and tropical flavors both casks bring to the table are deliciously complimented by their contrasting differences. The spice and sandalwood note from the Mizunara play on the grassier and more herbal side of the Rhum agricole. A delicious intro into the series.
Next in line is Kaiyō The Unicorn, which should intrigue many by name alone with its (you guessed it,) use of rare, old bourbon barrels. This whisky begins aging in virgin Mizunara Oak for five years, and then spends another five in these rare ex-bourbon barrels, making for a 10 year age statement. But, even beyond those special bourbon barrels, which unfortunately the source of can not be disclosed due to NDA’s, this whisky incorporates a ground-breaking and pioneering cask firing technique from Karlovitch that he has named “Wet Char.”.Buckle up, because this process may not be for the faint of heart!
Ever curious, and in the pursuit to make the best whisky possible, Karlovitch decided that he wanted to experiment with these barrels (all originally un-toasted and with a level 3-4 char) by leaving approximately 5 liters of the original liquid inside of the barrels and then igniting them. Thus, the “Wet Char” title. His out of the box, or possibly better said, ‘out of the cask’ thinking ditched the standard dump, scrape and re-char method, essentially burning off the original bourbon still inside the barrel causing all kinds of chemical reactions between the alcohol, wood and beyond. These reactions created a whole new flavor profile for his Mizunara-matured whisky to now interact with and take influence from.
This kind of pyro-infused alchemy makes me wish I had paid more attention in my high school chemistry classes. For now I’ll settle for the whisky itself which I can say is unlike any other malt I’ve had in my entire life. I dare anyone to taste The Unicorn blindly and not immediately assume it was a bourbon in their glass. Even at 46% ABV. This expression is a complete mind-melter in the best ways possible. Still having plenty of fruit notes throughout, the honey, grain, pepper and other baking spices all dance and pop with each other making for a pour you should take the time to sit down with. There is a lot to unpack out of this pour that I think deserves to be on the radars of both bourbon and malt whisky drinkers alike.
Finally, completing this trio of new releases to the Wood Library Series , is Kaiyō The Rye. This is another ten year old expression, beginning its life the same as the previous two with 100% malted barley as the distillate’s grain base and Mizunara oak as the backbone maturing cask. But now, as the name conventionally leads to, the secondary maturation is with first-fill American oak barrels previously holding Knob Creek Rye Whiskey, and again bottled at 46% ABV. With the same five year and five year split as The Unicorn, just no extra barrel burning this time, the combination of Mizunara and Rye, for me, arguably leads to this expression being the most complex offering. That is by no means to take away from the Ramu or Unicorn, but there is something about the marriage of rye spice flavors with Mizunara’s own unique spice profile, not to mention it’s tropical fruit, vanilla incense and sandalwood qualities, that makes for an extremely tasty treat. Again, this is whisky that is well-deserving of time spent sitting down, nosing, sipping and thoroughly enjoying from beginning to end.
All in all, I think there is literally something for everyone to be found in all of these Wood Library Series releases from Kaiyō. The mad scientist, wood management, and attention-to-detail method of the brand shows whisky production that artfully synchronizes the natural ingredients of Japan in the east with the many flavors and notes of the west and beyond. Ranging from around $65 to $100 USD, depending on your area, every one of these special edition releases is something to be on the lookout for before they are gone since, especially with them being in limited supply. Happy hunting, and Happy Holidays.
