It would be impossible to pass on the opportunity to talk about Irish whiskey in the month of March. First, let’s talk a few stats about this growing category.
How did 2023 shape up for Irish whiskey as a category? Actually, it has continued to perform quite well.
“In 2022, the value of Irish whiskey exports surpassed €1 billion (US$1.07bn) for the first time, according to the Irish Whiskey Association, and forecasts suggest further acceleration. In 2023, 12.9 million nine-litre cases were sold, representing a 3.22% increase from the previous year, data from Euromonitor International shows.” By comparison, American whiskey grew at the rate of 4.5% in 2023. It’s a good sign that the overall whiskey category is strong.
Even more impressive is this note: “Redbreast, Midleton Very Rare, Spot Whiskeys, Method and Madness, and Knappogue Castle, which comprise Irish Distillers’ prestige portfolio, were up by 22% in net sales growth for fiscal 2023. Overall, Irish Distillers experienced an 11% net sales growth in its portfolio.”
Simon Fay, the business-acceleration director at Irish Distillers is quoted in World Spirits Report 2023: Irish Whiskey, saying, “Irish whiskey has the potential, as a category, to offer far more product diversity…and will continue to do so if it can break out from historical quality and ‘cheapness’ perceptions…While in the past, as an industry, Irish whiskey has underperformed…compared with its Scotch competitors, in recent years things have moved on considerably, with the launch of new and very rare whiskeys.”
Irish whiskey is projected to continue to grow at the rate of 3.68% in 2024, and all indications are that it will. At retail, we see newer expressions such as Slane and The Sexton shelved alongside the traditional brands like Bushmills and Jameson. And because it IS March, I will share my favorite Irish whiskey selections with you, which are not ranked in any particular order:
Redbreast 12 is a 40 ABV expression that seems to pop up on every “best of Irish Whiskey” list for a reason. It’s quite an impressive single malt. At around the $65-$85 retail mark, RB12 delivers a refined, well-balanced, and complex profile that rivals expressions costing two or three times as much. From their website: “Made from a mash of malted and unmalted barley and then triple distilled in copper pot stills, Redbreast 12 boasts the flavour complexity and distinctive qualities of Pot Still whiskey. Matured in a combination of bourbon-seasoned American Oak barrels and Oloroso Sherry-seasoned Spanish oak butts, the distinctive Redbreast sherry style is a joy to behold in each and every bottle.”
RB12 is not an “everyday” type for me, but one I truly enjoy sharing with others on a special occasion.
Jameson Triple Triple. It’s a favorite of mine because it is a big step up from the Jameson Original, which I will not drink. From their website: “By blending the suave sophistication of bourbon and sherry casks with the bold flavours of Málaga casks, we’ve created a spirit that’s simply unparalleled.”
Okay, let’s not get a big head about it; it’s a decent product to be sure, but it’s not Midleton Very Rare either. Jameson Triple Triple is not “rare,” no matter that Jameson claims it to be on their website. It is difficult to find because of it being released exclusively through travel retail. This means you can really only find it at the Duty Free shops and on the cruise ships for around $35-$40 for a one liter. It’s 40 ABV with a flavor profile far more complex and interesting than the flat and disappointing Jameson Original.
Bushmills Black Bush. This classic 40 ABV expression is so much underrated, and I can’t say enough good things about it. I’m not alone in that. It has been called, “The benchmark for Irish blends,” (MacLean, C. (2018). In Great whiskies: 500 of the best from around the world (p. 69). essay, DK.) and no truer words have been spoken. Jim Murray selected it as his blended Irish Whiskey of the Year in 2018, 2019, and 2021, rating it a 91 and 95 with the added notes, “As beautiful as ever…remains a true work of Irish art…Truly classic.” (Murray, J. (2020). In Jim Murray’s whiskey bible 2021 (p. 279). essay, Dram Good Books.) Black Bush is full-bodied with around 80% eight-year-aged single malt comprising the blend. From their website: “Bushmills BLACK BUSH Irish Whiskey combines an exceptionally high amount of malt whiskey married with a lighter grain whiskey, and then matured in former Oloroso Sherry and bourbon casks. This unique recipe means BLACK BUSH has rich, fruity notes and a deep intense character, balanced by an incredibly unique smoothness.”
Indeed. Delivered to consumers at $29 – $35, it has to be the best value in Irish whiskey and can be a daily dram. Black Bush is head-and-shoulders above Bushmills Original, so spend the additional five bucks to be impressed.
Bushmills Single Malt 10 is the youngest of the Bushmills age-stated expressions, and the most accessible one. The 2007 World Whiskies Awards called it the “best Irish single malt whiskey in the world.”
From the Bushmills website: “Bushmills Single Malt Whiskey 10 year old is triple distilled from 100% malted barley and matured for a minimum of 10 years in former Sherry casks and bourbon-seasoned casks which gives it its honey, vanilla, and milk chocolate aroma. Its exceptional complexity is only matched by its approachability, and its smoothness.” This 40 ABV expression is lighter both in color and mouth feel than their Black Bush. Retailing at $42 – $50 makes it a staple for any cabinet.
The Sexton. Another great value proposition is The Sexton single malt. This is a four-year-old 40 ABV expression that curiously originates from County Antrim, the same location as Bushmills.
From their website: “Made from 100% Irish malted barley, triple-distilled for smoothness in copper pot stills, aged in oloroso sherry casks. The Sexton Single Malt Irish whiskey is rich in hue with the perfect balance of dried fruits, subtle oak notes, and a smooth finish that leaves you wanting more.”
It is bottled in a unique hexagonal squat black glass bottle which, if you read the online reviews, people either love or hate depending entirely upon their individual level of skill in pouring from it. I tend to like it. The whiskey itself is quite good, a solid pour, and a great sipper. Offered at $25 – $35, it is a decent choice to keep on hand and a dram you can confidently share with friends.
Roe & Co. This is an approachable and classic style 40 ABV blended expression. It’s non-chill filtered and most versatile. It works well in anything and everything. You can drink it neat, with ice, in a cocktail…or mix it in your favorite barbecue sauce for grilling. Roe & Co excels in all these purposes and more.
From their website: “Roe & Co is a new premium Blended Irish Whiskey, named in honour of George Roe, a true pioneer of Irish Whiskey. Refined, elegant, and with remarkable depth, a masterful blend of rich malt whiskey and the smoothest of grain whiskey aged in bourbon casks.”
It is a fine and reliable choice, even if it does not have the depth or complexity of an aged copper pot still single malt. Roe & Co. will not disappoint, nor will it hurt your wallet at $25 -$35.
Whichever Irish whiskey expressions you may choose, always remember the advice from our Irish friends, Níl cúram ar bith ann, ná déanann im agus fuisce, that is, what butter and whiskey won’t cure, there is no cure for.
Sláinte!
